Hunting attire is one of those excellent subjects that just never ends. . . some hunts hold to an extremely conservative, traditional, and one might even say "rigid" standard on what to wear, especially on the High Holy Days (Opening Meet, Christmas Meet, Boxing Day, New Years, etc, varies with the hunt).
With more accepting, flexible groups (I would say Caza Ladron is certainly one) the attire develops as one goes along. . . a western rider may appear in their comfortable western tack and down jacket the first time or two, then gradually evolve toward the more traditional attire as they get to know what works. (Or they may be perfectly happy and stylish in their western gear, and if they're marvelous company, that's fine too.)
Caza Ladron's colors, when awarded by the masters, are a collar of purple, ivory and tan chamois, and buttons if awarded (first black, then silver), on a black melton or frock coat for ladies and on a scarlet frock coat for gentlemen with colors. Masters, whippers-in and field masters wear scarlet if they choose.
The key is, foxhunting has specific traditional attire because it's been proven useful over many years on many continents. So what is the modern, comfy foxhunter to wear?
Here's a simple starting list, open to modification as personal preference, availability, style and local custom allow.
Formal Attire
- Hunt coats: For ladies, this is a 3-button black (or Navy blue) Melton (heavy wool), or a black or Navy blue wool frock coat, 3 buttons in front and two at the back. If a lady is awarded her hunt colors, those colored collars are applied to this coat, along with black hunt-monogrammed buttons or silver ones if awarded.
Gentlemen wear a black Melton until they are awarded their colors, at which time they may choose to shift to a scarlet coat. There are details about scarlet coats (rounded or square front corners, locations of pockets, numbers of buttons for masters vs members, etc. but if you're ready for that coat, you probably know all that hocus pocus already.)
Utility note: These black or scarlet warm, wool coats are about the only things that will keep you warm no matter the weather, plus they withstand rain, sleet, ripping branches and the occasional encounter with the ground. If you've come out in a black polyester show coat on a cold day, that wool option will sound worthwhile after the first stiff breeze.
- Britches: Anyone in a black Melton coat will be perfectly correct wearing tan, canary, buff or brick-colored britches (brick (rust) are especially appreciated back east in areas of red mud). Note, not white ones. White britches with a black coat are ONLY for the dressage arena and eventing. The gentlemen and staff in scarlets, however, DO wear white britches, and only white ones.
Utility Note: As for fabric, it's a bit like the coat thing, in that warm, hard-twill branch-proof britches last the longest. Stretchy cotton ones are inexpensive, but they rip easily on cactus and juniper and after you've replaced a few pairs, you haven't saved any money. Gentlemen who find the thought of close-fitting britches unpleasant might take a look at a polo catalog, they have more manly pants.
- Shirts: Honestly, anything white that keeps you either warm or cool and won't lump up under your stock tie is lovely. Some folks swear by polypropylene mock turtlenecks or other warm, wicking fibers. If you have a turtleneck, fold it down beneath your stock. Others hold to the classic white cotton ratcatcher shirt with their long silk undies beneath. No matter, just something more than a sports bra, please. We really should not see your shirt under your stock tie, unless you strip down to your shirt and vest.
- Vests: the most traditional hunt vest is a canary yellow wool vest, with brass buttons, monogrammed with the hunt initials. The vest's back is usually satin or similar slippery stuff so the coat rides over it smoothly. The other correct vest but slightly less formal is Tattersall, a cream color with windowpane lines of brown and blue.
- Neckwear: If one is wearing a black or scarlet coat, there are only two things proper to put around one's neck, and they're both called a white Stock Tie. You can buy shaped stocks at most tack shops, and they get tied in a good square knot, then the ends crossed over the knot, and a plain (not decorated) heavy gold stock pin goes through the crossover and slightly through the front of the knot to keep it from drooping. A handy rule of thumb is that your stock pin ends up about a hand's width below your chin.
Two additional plain safety pins are placed at the bottom tips of the crossed ends, down by your rib cage, to keep the whole thing from flapping up into your face during a good run. If you starch and iron it fiercely every time you wash it, your stock will look smashing even if you've had a little trouble getting the knot and pin sorted out.
Professional hunt staff are permitted to align their pin vertically and their stocks are folded differently, flat to the neck, not "tied" as such.
(One can buy a "pre-tied" stock, but don't go there. Just don't do it, it's the height of tacky. Think "clip-on," gentlemen, and you'll know what I mean). Pre-tied stocks also are useless in the case where a field bandage is needed.
The OTHER stock tie is the Four-Fold, a very traditional and lovely type of stock that is a simple, 6-foot x 8-inch length of fine white cotton, pressed into four folds, and then doubled around the neck, with a square knot, and the ends are laid up against the knot with the upper surface of one end unfolded and pinned along the sides. Elsewhere on this site there's a whole article about Four-Folds, so don't panic. This too requires pressing and starch and at least 4 little safety pins if not 6.
Clever organizers put on their stocks before they leave the house in the morning, so they can manipulate the knots and pins with warm fingers, with light, in front of a mirror. One can always tell who did their stock by the light of a truck dome light, squinting into the rearview mirror. It happens to the best of us.
Utility Note: Four-fold stock ties, especially, are potentially useful as bandages, slings, spare reins, etc. in the case of an accident or broken equipment.
- Boots: Tall black dress boots (no laces) are proper for men and women, and once one has one's colors, many hunts call for ladies to have black patent-leather tops added to theirs, and a person in scarlet would have mahogany leather tops added to his.
Spurs are always a good idea, usually the blunt Prince of Wales model, with black spur straps. To properly align one's spurs, make sure the straps are adjusted so that the spur follows the stitching along the ankle and sits parallel to the ground, not sagging down around the heel of the boot or pointing skyward.
Utility Note: Dress boots are highly useful in our more juniper-laden territory, as the branches can get caught painfully in the laces of field boots (but if one has field boots one loves, just do tuck in the laces or you'll lose them.) The concept of ripping around through the trees and cactus with tall boots is a good one. . . be prepared to pick out cactus spines, and be glad you're not picking them out of your shins.
- Gloves: No matter the weather, wear gloves. Brown gloves are traditional (I know, your coat's black but black gloves traditionally indicate mourning, and the dye can run on your sweaty hands). Those in scarlet wear white string or tan gloves.
Gloves will keep you warmer than bare skin and have the added ability to keep the skin attached to your bones should we do a lot of galloping and your horse gets opinionated about it all. Nothing worse than developing a blister one hour into a 3+ hour hunt. You can get lovely leather gloves with Thinsulate lining, etc. but really, the point is whether (1) you can find both of them and (2) you'll mind losing/stomping/tearing one. Simple is good. For rainy weather, the British traditionally keep a pair of white "string" gloves tucked under the flaps of one's saddle, as leather gloves on leather reins are slippery in the rain. If you have textured gloves (or tackified) this is not a problem.
- Helmets: A well-fitted, ASTM-SEI-approved black velvet helmet is appropriate on everyone. Most hunts require juniors to wear the helmets with harness, and they strongly encourage adults to do the same. Plastic helmets can be made quite hunt-presentable with a stretch-over velveteen cover, a good plan for kids or those who hunt infrequently. Only Masters and professional hunt staff can have the ribbons on the back of their hats hanging down -- if you buy a helmet with ribbons down, get out your glue gun or needle and thread and tack them back up. Even the nice Charles Owen "Hampton" helmets, which are otherwise a great combination of safe and traditional, need their ribbons tacked up, which is peculiar since Charles Owen is an English company and should know better.
Top hats are correct with scarlet or black frock coats or sidesaddle attire. Hunt top hats are 5 1/2' or 6" tall, unlike the shorter dressage hats.
- Hair nets: If your hair hangs out underneath your helmet, a hairnet is suggested. Pull your hair back into a ponytail or chignon, capture the long part in one net, then put a second net over the whole thing.
Informal or "Ratcatcher" attire
- Coats: During the "pre-season" hunting, as well as weekday meets, it is customary to wear informal attire, known as "Ratcatcher." Note, there is also a shirt called "a ratcatcher," but this is Ratcatcher in the general, whole-outfit meaning of the word. It's a tweed, herringbone or other earth-toned jacket, with vest, plus stock tie (a matching, muted tone, but not white) or choker or men's tie or turtleneck. Black, brown, or paddock boot/legging combo's allowed. Kids are always allowed to hunt in Ratcatcher, even on formal days, but adults usually use it as their transition toward formal, or on weekdays where formal attire is not required.
-Safety vests: We are greatly in favor of our members riding safely, and you'll notice that several of our staff and field members are wearing either padded safety vests or the inflatable air vests. Either or both are welcome for Caza Ladron hunters, just remember to unhook your air vest tether before you dismount!
Here are some internet and catalog examples (no commercial recommendations, just a place to see things)
The web page, "Foxhunting in Ol' Virginny"
The Old Habit shop
The Foxhunting Shop
Basic video guidance at "Horsegirl TV" on YouTube.
Replies
What of those who want to wear a basic eventing style safety vest? My canary hunt vest would cover some of it. It is white.
-Darlene